Why Won't My Cat Use The Litterbox? From The Doctors Desk

There are many medical conditions that can contribute to a cat not wanting to use their litter box. Oftentimes these conditions contribute to pain, and that pain is then associated with use of the box, so instinct tells your cat that he needs to find another place to go that is not painful. This is how many owners end up finding urine or feces in many areas around the house. The cat soon finds that the dining room carpet, the kitchen counter, or the bathtub all hurt too, they just cannot find a place to go that doesn't feel uncomfortable. Here we will touch on a few of the most common reasons, medically, that a cat may choose to avoid their litter box. Please keep in mind that your particular situation may be unique and you should seek advice from your veterinarian or a feline behavior counselor if your cats is avoiding the litter box or see our column on the many behavioral reasons as to why the box may be avoided.


1.) PAINFUL URINATION: Cats are prone to a variety of urinary disorders many of which can be uncomfortable and contribute to litter box avoidance. Urinary crystals, bladder lining inflammation (cystitis), bladder stones, urinary tract infections and vaginitis are all painful conditions. Additionally, some cats are unable to reach under their tail to clean. This leads to urine and fecal matter remaining on the fur and skin causing odor, burning, itching and sometimes infection of the underlying skin. This is particularly common in both overweight and extremely arthritic cats.


2.) PAINFUL DEFECATION: The most common medical reasons that a cat may defecate outside the box are: constipation, impacted/full anal glands, or intestinal parasites. Typically, a constipated cat has an urgency to defecate but cannot get out a full bowel movement so owners find a trail of hard, dry fecal balls rather than a full pile of fecal material all in one spot. Full anal glands make it difficult for a cat to pass stool through the anus; therefore making the experience uncomfortable, and they end up straining to defecate. Cats get intestinal parasites from exposure to fleas, eating prey, ingesting grass & plant material, and from debris/soil particles we bring inside on our shoes everyday. We recommend deworming cats at least once a year, more often if they go outside. Fecal analyses only check for microscopic eggs passed in feces. They can easily be missed since only a tiny amount of fecal matter is used in a fecal analysis. It is safer and less expensive to simply deworm your cat. We recommend that all cats that are defecating outside the litter box be dewormed to simply rule out the possibility of parasites contributing to a variety of discomforts including: gut cramps, bloating, gas, and diarrhea.


3.) ARTHRITIS: We recommend most cats around 10-12 years of age start joint supplements as a preventative measure to avoid the painful condition of arthritis. When cats are arthritic they can have a difficult time posturing on a sandy surface to urinate or defecate. These cats often seek stable or softer ground to eliminate. It can be challenging for them to climb into the box, posture, or maybe even get to where the box may be located. We suggest that you set these cats up for success by providing a litter box on every floor of your home. To put in perspective; imagine being 90 years old and needing to go down 2 flights of stairs to the litter box in the basement when your favorite sleeping spot is upstairs on the bed. When cats are older, bring their basic needs closer together. Providing different substrates such as empty pans, puppy pads, or softer litters can also help increase compliance in the senior cat.


4.) PAW PAIN: Some cats can be sensitive to the chemicals used to scent litter, carpet fresh, laundry detergents etc. These sensitivities can contribute to ulcerations of the paw pads or simply a painful allergic reaction. Many declawed cats have litter box avoidance issues. Since the declaw is an amputation of the first digit, cats are walking on a bone that was never meant to bear weight. So walking on the gravel texture of litter; especially if they are arthritic, can be an extremely painful experience. Many cats will seek a softer texture such as carpet or bedding to eliminate on because because their little amputated toes are painful. Alternatively, cats with their nails, if left untrimmed for an extended period of time, can get ingrown toe nails. This can also become extremely painful especially if the paw pads become infected. Cats can also get nail bed infections, again commonly from allergic reactions to the additives in scented litter.


5.) OVERALL PAIN: Many other medical conditions can result in a cat choosing not to go to their litter box. Infected teeth, itchy skin, metabolic disorders, and cancer that can all cause discomfort may cause them to find another location to eliminate. Instinct tells your cat that if they eliminate in the same place they usually do, it will send a message to all the other cats in your home that he/she is ill. This leaves your cat in a vulnerable position. To you, your cat is just urinating on the dining room carpet; to your cat he is hiding illness from a potential threat. Alternatively, some cats will eliminate on things that are very saturated with your scent; screaming for help, hoping you will notice and help them.

This is not a condition to be taken lightly. Elimination is communication and we MUST listen to what they are trying to say. If you have already taken your cat to your veterinarian and not found a solution, get a second opinion! Things get missed, and conditions change. There is always an answer, but much like dealing with an infant they cannot speak and it is through the process of elimination and good communication between you, the owner, and your vet/behavior counselor most problems can be solved.

Why Won't My Cat Use The Litterbox? Behaviorally Speaking

There are many behavioral reasons a cat may choose another place in the home to eliminate other than their litterbox. (Please see "Why Won't My Cat Use The Litterbox - Medical Reasons" for the myriad of medical reasons as to why this problem may occur). In this post, we will address the most common reasons for a cat to avoid the box, but keep in mind that there may be many other contributing factors other than what is listed here and you may need to seek advice from a behaviorist.
Before we get started it is important to address the most over looked and underemphasized point regarding this very common problem. LITTERBOXES ARE NOT SIMPLY FELINE TOILETS! Litterboxes provide a place for your cat to communicate, mark, and eliminate and there is a lot of emotion surrounding the use of them. So as you read through this list keep these questions in mind. Do you think the location of the litterbox in your home gives your cats a chance to say what they want to say and where they want to say it? Is your cat set up for success or failure?

1).LOCATION: When a cat eliminates it is their most vunerable moment and they must feel safe and secure. If every time they enter the box or even the room where the box is located they get chased or barked at by the family dog, attacked by another cat (even if in play), or must walk past the play room where loud toys and children are making noise, they may simply find a quieter, safer place to eliminate. Additionally, cats want to mark where their favorite humans spend the majority of their time. This means that the laundry room, basement, and hallway closet are NOT places for litterboxes. You may think you are ingenious for coming up with these out of the way “private” spaces, but in actuality you are setting you cat up for failure. Look around your home, what rooms do you frequent the most? That’s right, that is where your litterboxes should be!

2).THE BOX: Commercially available litterboxes are once again designed for humans and not cats, funny since we do not have to crawl in there and use them. They are too small. Litterboxes should be one and half times the length of your cats body, and they should have lots of room to dig and turn around without rubbing their bodies against the sides of the box. They should also be uncovered. (See our litterbox handout on this website for a photo). Hooded boxes increase fear and aggression especially in a multi-cat home. Again we are back to vunerability, they cannot see who is approaching in an opaque hooded litterbox. It is the perfect attack if you are a board cat who wants to stalk your housemate.

3).HOW MANY: The rule of thumb is one more litterbox than you have cats. The reason being is that most cats prefer to urinate in one box and defecate in another, again they are marking within your home. Another reason is so that not all of the boxes in the house can be “guarded” at any given time and the cats can always access to a box. Now if you have 10 boxes in a “litterbox room” you are again setting the cats up for failure. You essentially have one big box, one way in and one way out. If that doorway is guarded by one cat then no one else can get in there to go to the bathroom. Lets remember that the cats want to mark where you spend time and I bet most humans don’t sit and read a book in the “litterbox room.”

4).SUBTRATE: Once again the market is saturated with products designed for humans. The litter should be soft, unscented, and ideally clumping. (See our handout for specific recommendations). Cats have a sense of smell far greater than ours and even that light florally fragrance can be extremely offensive to your cat. Keep in mind they also have to groom that scent off of themselves. Many cats have reactions to the chemicals used to make the litter scented and won’t step in the box because the skin on their feet and paw pads have been affected by this! Crystal and pine litters with the big pieces are also not ideal. Outside cats would choose soft loose soil, not hard, sharp big chunks to eliminate.

5).CLEANLINESS: All litterboxes regardless of how many cats you have should be scooped a minimum of once per day, twice a day is ideal. Remember that cats are fastidiously clean animals. They should never have to step on a bowel movement to have a bowel movement. If using clumping litter, then dump and scrub with a mild detergent +/- a 10% diluted bleach solution every 6-8weeks. If using clay (non clumping litter) use a very shallow amount of litter and dump completely each day. Do not try to scoop urine out the best you can and then stir it around, it makes the box appear completely soiled with urine to your cats’ sensitive nose.
We have just grazed the surface as to why a cat may not find its’ litterbox preferable. If you have already made changes similar to these suggestions, please fill out the behavior questionnaire on this website and submit it for a consultation.

I keep hearing about foraging toys-what are they?

Foraging Toys are food dispensing objects that allow one or two pieces of kibble to fall out at a time, rewarding your cat for their efforts and perseverance. They are a great way to enrich your cats’ indoor environment as well as appeal to their natural hunting instincts and prey drive.

Studies show that a lack of mental stimulation can results in up to 30% loss of brain function over time. This is true for many species including humans. It is important to continue to learn new things and be challenged and that is exactly what foraging does for cats. Many behavior problems stem from boredom, frustration and stress. So providing an ever changing and challenging home environment makes for smarter, happier cats.

Many clients say “My cat will never do that,” or “my cat is not smart enough.” You may be surprised at how well they take to the concept. Here are a few tips to get your kitty foraging: start off with clear containers with a lot of holes (an old water/soda bottle works great!). Use a pocket knife or box cutter to create a hole that is respective to the size food you are going to fill it with and then fill it up! Fill the object at least ½ way full because when they are almost empty it is very challenging to get the final pieces. You want to make it easy and allow them to be rewarded easily and frequently. You can increase the challenge by advancing to opaque objects, objects with fewer holes, and finally cubes. Be sure to offer a food that is different than what is in your cats’ food bowl, it needs to be motivating! We recommend the Science diet dental diets or hairball control foods as they are very palatable.

Foraging toys for cats are a relatively new concept and it will, unfortunately, be hard to find any store bought toys. There are a variety of toys available here at Paws Whiskers and Claws, and many home-made toys that you can make yourself. Next time you are in just ask our behaviorist, Ingrid Johnson, and she will give you some tips on how to make your own as well as what to fill them with to make them exciting and keep your kitty motivated to forage

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